Returning to Beijing after a long absence, there is always the pleasure of discovering the next big thing to eat. In early 2006, it was tujia bing, a sauceless minipizza sprinkled with meat and taken to go in a brown paper bag. In the fall of 2007, it was Sichuan roasted fish, the dish that drives the Zhu-yufang franchise and is making inroads into the hotpot empire on Ghost Street. Meanwhile, artists flush with cash from the Chinese art boom are starting their own restaurants, and high-end vegetarian cuisine has made the leap from monasteries to the A-list. For people obsessed with food, Beijing has endless offerings to excite the senses.